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Dave Builds a Greenhouse

I have been planning this for months, and finally I am getting started. I have purchased a custom manufactured greenhouse from Florian Greenhouse, Inc, of Geogetown, South Carolina. So far, I have been totally impressed with this company - they have been easy to deal with and have delivered on time.

I'll keep a photo record of my progress on this website for friends and family to see.

Apr 3 2002 Here is a "before" picture. I have removed most of the plants but otherwise have not even started building.	Apr 27 2002 The blueprint shows the front, side and top views, along with some construction detail for the vents and doorway.	Apr 3 2002 This is the 24 ft. International Diesel Truck I drove 900 miles in one day, to pick up the greenhouse in South Carolina.
Apr 3 2002 It does not look like much in this picture, but is 3,600 lbs of materials to build the greenhouse.	Apr 3 2002 And here, stored in the garage... I think it will be here for a while.	Apr 4 2002 I hired the neighborhood cat, Tiger, as a security guard for the construction site.
Apr 27 2002 Finally, I got my building permit.	Apr 21 2002 It took me a day to finish getting the site cleared and ready.	I needed to make sure the top right corner would clear the living room window, so the wall must be as high as the "X" in this picture.
Apr 27 2002 I found the center point at that height, then used a line level to make sure I was level on each end for my rough measurements.	Apr 27 2002 Then I measured out 13 ft. 3 3/8 in. from the center, and dropped a plumb bob to find where the footers will go.	Apr 27 2002 I took the rest of the outside measures where the greenhouse will be attached to the house, and marked the outline with twine.
Apr 27 2002 I marked on the existing foundation of the house, exactly where I need the greenhouse footer to be dug. I measured down 18 in. to allow for the concrete block kneewall.	Apr 27 2002 The property is on a slope, so the right side and front footers will be 8 1/4 inches lower to allow for another course of concrete block wall.	May 5 2002 I measured and remeasured to make sure the footer was dug in the right place. To make sure it is square, I measured the two diagonals to make certain they are equal. (In this picture I am rechecking the measurement after digging the footers, but before building the forms.)
The diagonals each measured 373 inches, so I checked the calculations using my long forgotten high school geometry for right triangles. There's a great shortcut on the web at http://www.1728.com/pythgorn.htm.	May 5 2002 As long as the opposite sides and both diagonals are equal, it HAS to be square (right?).	Apr 27 2002 Here's a view from the end of the house, showing where the greenhouse will be attached.
Apr 27 2002 Another view showing the outline.	Apr 27 2002 Here, I have only begun to dig the footers.	A VERY ROUGH drawing (not to scale) showing how the greenhouse will be situated.
May 11 2002 Finally I finished digging and got the forms built for the perimeter footing. I am not putting in a concrete slab, because I want to be able to plant in the soil in the greenhouse, and it will need to drain properly.	May 11 2002 Because of my sloping property, I had to make a level change of 8 1/4 inches to allow for 1 course of concrete block.	May 11 2002 Our city building code requires that the new footing be joined to the existing footing by drilling and epoxying rebar into the existing footing.
May 11 2002 On the lower side I added 2 inch pipes under the footing to provide better drainage.	May 12 2002 Meanwhile, my security guard is still alert, making sure no one steals my building materials.	May 12 2002 Here is the rebar, epoxyed in place.
May 12 2002 When the concrete is poured, there is no way this footing will separate from the house.	May 12 2002 I found out just how hard it is to make a 90 degree bend in #5 rebar. Here I have continuous pieces around the corner and changing level so it will be solid and strong.	May 12 2002 It was a real challenge to get the forms perfectly level and square. I started from each end and when they came together at the corner they met just right, thank goodness.
May 12 2002 So here it is, May 12th, ready for my first inspection from the city. If it passes inspection, I can start pouring concrete.	Jun 3 2002 It passed! I was going to mix the concrete myself until I figured out how much it would take, and how long.	Jun 3 2002 So I had a crew with the right equipment pump the concrete up from the street and pour it. The footer came out level, and the two-levels were just right.
Jun 15 2002 Next I had to lay three courses of concrete block and anchor in a 2 by 8 sill plate.	Jun 21 2002 I installed 4 inch drainpipe both inside and outside the greenhouse walls. The upper one shown here drains off the pond overflow.	Jun 21 2002 Here it is, ready for framing when I get back from Thailand. I'll probably finish the inside decking and raised beds BEFORE I start framing it up.
Aug 31 2002 A shoulder injury slowed me down, but I've finally gotten back to work. I had 6 yards of pea gravel delivered to make the main floor of the greenhouse. I killed all the weeds with Roundup, then laid weed block down before I spread the gravel. I will use patio stones for part of the area but most will be potted plants on the gravel.	Aug 31 2002 I am using treated lumber to make a plate to attach the open gable side to the house. Here I have laid out and cut the lumber on my driveway by using the actual greenhouse framing members that will be attached.	Aug 31 2002 Next, I raised the 2 by 6 plate in place and marked the vinyl siding where it needs to be cut.
Sep 1 2002 After cutting the strip of vinyl siding, I edged it with "J" molding and then anchored the 2 by 6 plate through the wall into the studs with 4 inch lag bolts.	Sep 1 2002 I made sure the verticals were spaced exactly the right distance apart and mounted perfectly vertical and plumb. I had to use some shims because the house wall was not exactly plumb.	Sep 4 2002 I had to add a treated 2 by 4 to bring the distance out a little more, but that gave me a perfect fit with the door opening.
Sep 4 2002 Before I finally anchored the sill to the sill plate, I measured everything one more time. The diagonals from outside corner to outside corner of the sills came to 371 3/4 inches. Using the calculator (see #15 above) it came out 371.66 inches - within a tenth of an inch.	Sep 4 2002 I anchored the sill to the plate with 2 1/2 inch lag bolts and caulked everything according to the installation manual. I also went ahead and pre-painted the areas before installing the sill and the main bar against the house.	Sep 7 2002 I used a pulley and an improvised wooden prop to help me raise the main header. This is NOT something to attempt by yourself.
Sep 7 2002 I'll let the next few pictures speak for themselves.	Sep 7 2002	Sep 7 2002
Sep 7 2002	Sep 7 2002 My wife helped me with the two gable ends, but the whole thing is very unstable at this point.	Sep 7 2002 My son came over and helped me with the other main roof bars and we soon had it taking shape.
Sep 7 2002 We lifted the center gable vertical in place and things started stabilizing very well.	Sep 7 2002 Once the other gable verticals were installed, and some horizontals bolted in place, we could start coasting.	Sep 8 2002 I decided to add some reinforcement to attach the main bar to the house. The only thing holding it as designed was the two "T-bolts" that connect the roof main bars.
Sep 8 2002 I was really coasting until I got to the doorway framing. I discovered that the horizontal was cut too short.	Sep 8 2002 I called Florian and they were very responsive. They are cutting a new piece and shipping it UPS, hopefully this week.	Sep 8 2002 Here the frame is about 3/4 finished. I have been very impressed with the careful packaging, labeling, organization and installation instructions by Florian Greenhouses. The one cutting error I found was with a custom piece for my front-wall doorway, and they are sending me a replacement soon.
Sep 14 2002 Greenhouses more than 6 bays long require H-members and support poles. The H members did not come painted white, so I had to paint them myself.	Sep 14 2002 Meanwhile, my helper found a good place to take a break.	Sep 28 2002 The new door frame piece arrived and I finished the framing.
Sep 28 2002 I used the paper tubes that the framing members were packed in as a form to make concrete piers for the support poles.	Sep 28 2002 These support poles add stability and wind load rating to the greenhouse.	Sep 28 2002 I also anchored the H-members directly to the wall plate for added support and strength of the framing. I had to remove the reinforcement on the header because it was in the way of the ridge vent.
Sep 30 2002 I started the glazing from the first bay next to the house and worked my way outward one complete bay at a time. This way I could reach all the pressure plates and horizontals without climbing on the roof.	Sep 30 2002 I changed the original plans and located the window next to the door near the planned sitting area.	Sep 30 2002 This picture shows some detail of how the glass lays on the glazing gaskets before the pressure plates and flat caps are installed. Note how the horizontals are joined to the main bars using stainless steel cross clips.
Sep 30 2002 Another picture of the cross clip which holds the frame together.	Sep 30 2002 The glass is sealed to the header and the sills using butyl tape.	Sep 30 2002 The pressure plate is slipped under the header and then screwed down to the main bar. The glazing gaskets above and below the glass make a tight seal, but note that the first hole was predrilled a little too close to the end of the pressure plate.
Sep 30 2002 The straight eave models require inner and outer end caps to seal the roof glass to the front wall glass. The instructions for this were unclear, and the design (I think) could be improved.	Sep 30 2002 The wall glass is temporarily held in position by using rubber setting blocks to hold them in position. This worked out very easily and the wall glass was a snap to install even with one person.	Sep 30 2002 The flat caps are sealed to the glass with thin foam tape. This also worked out very well.
Sep 30 2002 The areas which will NOT have glass (like the ridge vent opening) have rubber spacers instead of glazing gasket.	Sep 30 2002 Here is the door opening, with a rubber spacer along the top and under the pressure plate along the side.	Sep 30 2002 The spaces where the exhaust fan and intake louvers will be installed have Lexan instead of glass. An opening will be cut with a jig saw when they are installed.
Sep 30 2002 The glass I am using is single pane tempered glass, 1/8th inch thick.	Oct 5 2002 At last! The glazing is completed. But there is still lots of work to be done.	Oct 5 2002 Next step was to build and install the ridge vent. This turned out to be one of the most difficult parts.
Oct 22 2002 Several of the parts (such as these F11 spacers) were cut too short and the vent frame did not fit in the opening exactly as indicated in the installation manual.	Oct 22 2002 Eventually I was able to work everything out and get the ridge vent and its apparatus working okay. Here it is in the closed position.	Oct 22 2002 And here it is in the open position.
Oct 22 2002 I ordered screens with my ridge vent, and the design for them is pretty slick, using brushes around the lifting bars.	Oct 22 2002 A powerful motor was included, which can easily lift the 6-bay ridge vent.	Oct 22 2002 I ordered a Schaeffer 3000 CFM exhaust fan which can move a lot of air for its compact size.
Oct 22 2002 I built an aluminum frame to provide a little more support where it is bolted to the Lexan panel.	Oct 22 2002 I ordered two of the Schaeffer intake louvers which are powered to force them open or closed, triggered by the same thermostat as the exhaust fan.	Oct 22 2002 I added an override switch so that I can run the fan with the lovers closed, if I want the air to be forced through the screened window and door instead of the louvered intakes.
Oct 22 2002 All the ventilation controls are lined up on an outside wall. At the top is an electrical outlet, then the thermostats which control the ridge vent and the exhaust fan, and finally a Schaeffer speed control so I can run the fan at a lower speed.	Oct 22 2002 I bought a Larsen storm door which has a screened window that can be opened. My careful measurements paid off as the door fit perfectly in the opening in the knee wall.	Oct 22 2002 I bought two King Pic-a-watt heaters which run at 240 volts and each can produce up to 19,000 btu.
Oct 22 2002 These heaters are very well designed and constructed in Seattle, Washington. The fans are permanently lubricated, designed to last for 15-20 years, and will serve as circulation fans.	Oct 22 2002 Almost done (I think).	Oct 31 2002 I hired an electrician to install 4 new circuits at the main panel and bring the wiring to the greenhouse. Then I completed the electrical work, using PVC conduit.
Oct 31 2002 I installed 4 water spigots inside.	Oct 31 2002 I stuccoed the concrete block walls inside and out.	Oct 31 2002 I painted the stucco with a water-proof masonry paint, to deter the growth of mildew on the knee wall.
Oct 31 2002 I had to redo the eave caps, which IMHO have a poor design and incomplete instructions from the factory. I had to drill extra holes in the pressure plates, and seal the glass with poly tape and caulking. In the end it came out just fine.	Nov 3 2002 And here it is, with plants inside, and only a few finishing touches left to go.	Nov 3 2002 Another view.
Nov 3 2002 And from the inside... It did not take me long at all to fill it with plants. I am adding some shelving and some hangers for hanging plants.	Nov 19 2002 I built some shelves on the outer walls.	Nov 19 2002 And added a table and chairs for the patio.
Nov 19 2002 I made full use of the vertical space with hanging baskets and mounted bromeliads.	Nov 19 2002 More hanging baskets.	Nov 19 2002 And a climbing Tibouchina on one of the support poles.
Feb 1 2003 A couple of months later I decided to cut a doorway through the wall from our living room.	Feb 1 2003 I felt like Tim on "Tool Time" as I started cutting through the wall.	Feb 2 2003 This door sure looks wide! I hope I measured right.
Feb 2 2003 The view from the greenhouse. I reinforced the opening with some 2 by 4 studs.	Feb 2 2003 Whew! That other photo was just turned the wrong way. The door is in place, a perfect fit.	Feb 2 2002 Just need to add the hardware.

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